This developer would cost speed with a normal film, so expose to suit. In my last post I cited Photo Techniques as the source for the Kodalith article. Up from 2 minutes [http: So you keep the temperature the dilution ratio the developer the film the agitation rhythm the room temperature! I have a bunch of old Kodak Ortho film that I’ve given up on. You mean like this?

As long as I do not have the lith film I have no idea if it might work for you. That looks really good. I will try again tomorrow following your advice Still needs lots of testing though before I am satisfied. Milk jugs are designed to be biodegradable. If you want your images to look unique, then shoot Ortho film as Ortho film, not like Tri-X. If you increased both by a minute your short developing time is extended by much more than your long developing time. If it is the middle negative your lightmeter reads correctly and your development is off.

However it is difficult to judge an overexposed film from an overdeveloped film. Is anyone else shooting this? Typical developing times are 1: All you need to do is to adjust the developing time from whatever table on the next roll by changing it while keeping everything else constant. Boris 77 5 years ago.

Continuous-tone Negatives on Lith Film Using Rodinal? | Photography Forums

I look forward to seeing your images! Good luck and buy some opaqueing goop It is particularly the latter that got me to try lith film. I don’t think it’s possible to over expose lith film ok, I’m exaggerating a little.

WAY too strong, but I’m liking the results. I’m amazed how rectilinear the image is considering the decree curve of the film. If you wanted to take a given time as fixed number you would need to make sure that you: In order to make a good judgement use normal negatives exposed neither in bright sunlight nor under extreme low contrast conditions such as fogg in the morning.


I’ve read a number of places that you can get a decent amount of continuous tone from Ortho-Litho film if you use somewhat diluted Dektol developer, but it will still be pleasantly contrasty making it wonderful for alternative process negatives. Ha, that is nothing.

Ultrafine Ortho Litho Film 35mm x 20 exp

Diluted Dektol works fine. Edited by Hachi Gatsu member 1 year ago. High dilution stand developing may work.

Milk jugs are designed to be biodegradable. I think you are close but I just bet you’ll find rodinql isn’t cheap for the results you are after unless rodinal works to your satisfaction.

Mostly in pinhole cameras, rating the film at 6. The time now is Does anyone know the reprocity failure of this film Ortho Litho and if so, can it be compare which other regular film That to use it in long exposure with pinhole camera Thanks in advance I shoot Kodalith in 35mm, developed in Dektol 1: Hachi Gatsu Posted 1 year ago. BTW, the film base is very thin.

So you keep the temperature the dilution ratio the developer the film the agitation rhythm the room temperature! I may have to consider conventional cut sheet pan film for my purpose if the lith film refuses to produce the results I need, or the chemicals are too expensive, but I will first try a few ideas I got here.

Continuous-tone Negatives on Lith Film Using Rodinal?

X-Ray and Lith films are much different, in my experience — lith films are slower, and higher contrast, but less prone to fogging under a red safelight, making DBI much more practical.


This was a shot using Rollei ortho 25asa film not sure if it is the same as the ortho 25 being discussed here. So when they got e. If the images are not really black but neither is the film tip nor the frame numbers you seem to have exposed right but the film is underdeveloped.

Lay out the final print under good daylight conditions to make a judgement. If development is too slow, add another 5g of sulfite, and so on, until you get results you like. Also it is “blue sensitive” which means it is essentially ortho film as well.

ADOX | More about film developing

FYI, for those following this thread, here is the ‘control’ shot I took on 35mm tri-x: This is my 3rd or 4th try with Arista II. I just started working with this film and am almost to the point of pulling my hair out and giving up.

As long as I do not have roxinal lith roidnal I have no idea if it might work for you. Up from 2 minutes [http: It takes a sunny day and a fast lens! Why go to all the bother of shooting ortho film when you don’t have to?

Promise You are allowed to change the exposure time by varying the time on your enlarger timer. When you have shot and developed a roll exposed with bracketing try to judge which negative is always the best from the set of three.